Thursday, April 30, 2015

Buttonhole alternatives

If you have trouble knitting good-looking buttonholes, two main choices face you: You can improve your buttonholes, or you can find an alternative.

Today, we'll look at these alternatives.

TAILORING SERVICE:
Although the neighborhood seamstress is an endangered species, machine-made buttonhole services are still available on-line and through many local yarn shops. A modern home sewing machine with buttonhole capability can work too, but try this out on a swatch before committing your precious sweater!

Upside: looks professional especially when paired with a grosgrain ribbon lining.
Downside: If sent out, it usually takes a while to get your sweaters returned , and this option can be expensive. Can be hair-raising to try this at home.

SNAPS. Many knitters want to try on the garment before deciding closure placement. One solution to accommodate this desire is snaps. After settling on placement, one half each snap is sewn into matching position on each front band. A decorative button can be sewn on over each top snap for a traditional look. Decoration buttons should not flop around, but should give the illusion they are buttoned through a button band, so use a button with holes (not a button with a shank!) and sew it on flat. Also, remember to sew decoration buttons onto the band which would ordinarily sport the buttonholes (men's: left; women’s: right) so that the sweater looks buttoned when snapped shut.

Upside: Looks good buttoned, allows you to defer closure placement until after the garment is finished and can be tried on
Downside: Doesn't look all that great when the garment is worn open: The half snap visible on the underneath button band may have that home-made look.

FROGS and CLASPS. Braid frogs (originally Oriental) and metal clasps (originally Scandinavian) are traditional non-button methods of holding garments shut. Both are widely available in many sizes and styles, both are sewn on at the end. These let you avoid buttonholes and can add a design element, also.




Upside: Like snaps, these allow you to defer placement decisions until after the garment is finished. These are easy to sew on. Both frogs and clasps add a decorative element. A plain sweater can be jazzed up to be quite unique by simply using these fasteners.
Downside: As the braid from which they are made stretches with wear, frogs begin to come open fairly easily. This requires sewing the loops smaller with secret tiny hidden sewing stitches. Although easy to sew on, it isn't always all that easy to sew an entire line of frogs on straight relative to one another.
As far as clasps go, these can be quite heavy, dragging down the front band of a sweater. Therefore, clasps work best when the sweater to which they are attached is knit firmly in a relatively heavy weight of yarn--DK and above, or when the clasp is small. Also, clasps can be expensive.

TOGGLES
: These are like frogs, but feature a straight or curved button which fits through the loop, rather an a knot of braid as frogs have.

Upside: Like frogs and clasps, toggles are sewn on afterward, which lets you experiment with closure-placement after the garment is finished (i.e.: when you can try it on). Toggles have the potential to be an interesting design element.
Downside: Like frogs, you have to keep a close eye on your sewing to get all the toggles sewn on straight relative to one another on both bands. but more important, when the garment is worn open, the toggle swings loose, (annoying!) and may catch in things, especially the pointy horn-shaped toggles. Any kind of toggle is not so good for babies who may get the toggle in their mouths: a potential choking hazard.

SHAWL PINS. Originally used to keep elegant scarves and shawls together, these are increasingly used for sweaters, especially the swing-type held shut only at top. Great versatility is possible: in the evening, a bold jewelry-like pin can dress up the sweater which spent the day at the office looking demure under a plainer, smaller pin.

Upside: Beautiful, easy to use. Easy to change the look.
Downside: Works best on a sweater which can be worn with one (and only one) closure point--such as the top of a swing jacket, of the waist of a fitted sweater or jacket. On two-piece shawl pins--where the stick-like tang pokes through a shell (casing), but is otherwise not attached--the tang can fall out.


Good knitting! --TK

PS: You can still participate in the POLL with a chance at a PRIZE through May 15, 2010!
He's Back

A nice, relaxing weekend at home with Thaddeus has been extremely therapeutic.

Homesickness
It's amazing how just three weeks away from home can make me feel so lonely and sad...even when I have planned for it for over a month.

During the last week of the three week "go-live" of the project I'm working on, work continued to be extremely stressful and in addition, I was longing more and more to be home and with Thaddeus.

The funny thing is that we didn't do anything special when I finally got home. It turned out to be a relatively routine weekend. But it did more for this guy's soul than you could possibly imagine.

So glad to be back to a more normal work/home life.

Current Knitting
I did get more knitting done on the Faux Ribbed Sweater this weekend.



I'm up to nine and a half inches so far, and it's looking quite fine.

I'm still in a bit of a quandry as to which side of the fabric to use as the public side. Here's a couple of closeup pictures of both sides.




I'd be interested to hear opinions on which fabric they prefer for a simple man's pullover.

Readers' Comments/Questions
Regarding the handspun Blueface Leicester I'm using for my current sweater, Jacquie says, "Inconsistencies in spinning? Joe, that's as Republican a comment as I've ever heard. Inconsistency in spinning is the whole point. Handspun is spun by hand and feels like hands do, utterly delicious on the body. Is this sweater not for your lovie?"

Wow, that was harsh Jacquie. Obsessive/compulsive? Perhaps. Anal-retentive? Possibly. Overly concerned with details? Probably. But Republican? Ouch!

And in answer to your question, the sweater will be for both Thaddeus and I. It's the one garment that we can both wear the same size and styles.

Do Library Cards Expire?


I used to go to the library every other week or so years ago and take out a couple of books to read.

Reading Material
After the last crappy book I read, I went to my small stack of remaining unread books that were purchased a while ago, and selected a PD James detective novel. The last one I read was interesting enough, so I figured this would be acceptable reading.

But I really am scraping the bottom of the barrel. I need to start going back to my library on a more regular basis and checking out books there, but it has just become so much more convenient to just order a stack of books through Amazon and work my way through them.

Current Knitting
I am racing through the beginnings of this new lace design, and enjoying both the process and the result.



The section of the lace I'm working on is actually a square piece, but I didn't have my pins to block it out a little for the picture (they were left with the last Ichida project). This section is almost complete, and will eventually form one half of the center section of the lace.

I'll post a scan of the schematic for the overall piece so it's easier to track where I am in the progress.

Finally
When Franklin was out visiting Carol, she had received a preview copy of her own book, so I guess the public arrival of the book is imminent.



No, Franklin is not looking at her chest...he's looking at her book, Knits So Fine. I did get a chance to browse through the book in between our incessant chatter, and I am now looking more forward to its release than I was when I first heard about it. Folks will be very pleased with this book.

Wednesday, April 29, 2015

Bad Drivers

Have you ever noticed that certain characteristics of a driver tend to mean they are usually a bad driver.

Survey
It used to be that Thaddeus and I would always notice that the bad drivers were the ones that wore hats when they drove. Then we noticed that many Volvo drivers were erratic drivers.

Due to the reputation of safety in Volvo's Thaddeus was often heard saying, "People who drive Volvo's, should."

In that same vein, I've heard that some folks think Volkswagen Jetta drivers are careless and dangerous.

So I figured it was time for an informal poll of readers.



Current Knitting
I'm continuing on with the small needles and the hundreds of stitches with the coworker's baby blanket.



I'm liking the fabric of the blanket and the design very much. It will turn out being a very lightweight blanket.

Birthday Surprise
My sister-out-of-law, Michelle, took a vacation up to Niagra Falls, on the pretty side, in Canada. Guess what I got as a birthday surprise?



Not just this one jar...but NINE!!!

Is she the best or what?

Readers' Comments/Questions
First of all, thanks to Liza for educating us in the ways of evil imposters. My apologies to Sarah for editing her comment, but I wanted to make sure that a company taking away from the good work that Manos del Uruguay does, didn't get any free press on my site.

I was aware that Manos sold yarn spun by Uruguayan women in poverty, but I was also led to believe that the knock-off supported the same or similar group of women.

I feel duped.

Here's a link where the company describes their own purpose.

http://www.manos.com.uy/Manos05/ingles/qsomos/qsomos1.htm

Paranoia


Did you ever get the odd feeling that you were being completely paranoid, and that the world seemed to be conspiring against you?

Maybe It Is
With all the crazy crap that this administration had done in the name of keeping this country safe from terrorism, and then cleverly trying to make it all legal by calling it "the Patriot Act", it's no wonder I get more and more paranoid.

How many of my phone calls may have been listened in on? How might my internet activity been tracked? Have my library records been looked at to see my book rental activity? How many folks are currently being held as enemy combatants in the various CIA prisons around the world, without access to any legal protections? How soon before the U.S. starts poisoning it's perceived enemies as Russia seems to have done?

You'd never know it, but I think the concept of the Patriot Act is a great idea. Using any tools we can to protect ourselves against religious fanatics.

That is, unless the religious fanatics are running my government, and using anti-terrorist legislation to combat all things immoral.

I have to stop watching PBS.

Current Knitting
I did absolutely no work at all on the colorblock cardigan. I got completely swept up in the new Lavold-inspired pullover using my handspun bulky.



I finished the bottom edge, and picked up stitches and knit up just over the arm hole shaping. It's amazing how quickly a sweater goes on US10 needles.

Tuesday, April 28, 2015

New Beginnings


With all hope of finding my last Ichida lace project, I have decided to start a new one.



New Lace Design
There is no name associated with this design (that I am aware of)...it is number 13 in the second book of lace by Naoko Ichida.

I've actually made a little progress on this piece already...more than the picture would show...I'll post a more up-to-date picture on Wednesday.

Having gone through difficulties and mistakes on the first Ichida project, this one is going a lot more smoothly. It's more complex in design than the first one, but not quite as beautiful. I'm also glad to be using a slightly thinner yarn for this project...it's going to look much nicer.


Current Reading
Does anyone think it's odd that I took a picture of the last book I read in the garbage can?



If anyone has ever read this book (and it's doubtful, since the book is rather old and practically impossible to get through), they wouldn't think it odd at all. The book is Frogs Into Princes - Neuro Linguistic Programming by Richard Bandler and John Grinder .

I have always found Neuro Linguistic Programming to be a fascinating technique, and I wanted to read more about it. Years ago, I picked this book up at a book sale somewhere and just recently got around to reading it. It's actually transcripts from a seminar by the listed authors, and it was a painful read. I found some useful information hidden carefully in the obtuse text, but it wasn't worth it.

Television Is Ruining Our Children
Here's our child ruining his eyes by sitting too close to what we call "kitty TV."



Nico can sit endlessly watching out the sliding glass doors on the back of our house, waiting for birds, squirrels ground hogs and other cats in the neighborhood to walk by. This picture shows him getting ready to pounce on the local squirrel.

Monday, April 27, 2015

How to knit with 2 or more colors-part 2: one color in each hand


I grew up in New York City--Manhattan, uptown, near Columbia University. Sometimes into our urban space, aliens would arrive. Their main distinction to me and the other little kids on my block was twofold: 1) they drove big cars; 2) they provided excellent street theater when parallel parking.

These aliens (or "college parents") were harmless. They smiled at people, held doors, we sort of liked them. They'd say "New York is a nice place to visit, but we wouldn't want to live here."

Our native drivers did it different--they could and did cram their cars into very small spaces with one hand on the wheel, a casual backwards glance, while maybe eating a sandwich, or having a shouting match with the guy they'd just jumped to claim the space. The aliens lost in comparison. Our attitude was "New York is OK to live in, but we wouldn't want to have to be visitors--"

Visiting the land of two-color knitting is like that. Dabbling at two color knitting is like trying to parallel park if you don't have a system--lurch forward, scootch backwards, drop one color to knit a few stitches with the next color, then drop again. Do you cut the wheel this way or that? Should the yarns should be twisted together? Do you line up with the bumper or the steering wheel? Should the new yarn be taken over or under the old yarn? Without a system, the whole thing can turn into a nightmare.

So--what's the difference between a driver carefully maneuvering into a space with assistance of a spouse at curbside and the driver blithely cruising backwards with one hand on the wheel and one eye on the mirror? It is nothing but practice, practice, and more practice until it turns into a system. It's no secret how to parallel park--it's laid out right there on page 43 of the Driver's License Handbook. But, until you do it a bunch of times, until you reduce it to a step-by-step procedure, you won't get it. Two-color knitting (heck--all knitting), like parallel parking, well, you have to practice if you want to slide into the spot on first try.

Ahem--just a minute while I climb down off this soapbox here.

OK, back to...

KNITTING with ONE COLOR in EACH HAND

A classic method of two-color knitting is the "two-fisted" approach popularized by Elizabeth Zimmerman. The idea is to knit one color off the left hand (continental knitting) and the other color off the right hand (English knitting). Keeping the yarns on separate hands means the yarns are kept apart, and so have less tendency to tangle.
click picture
This is incredibly awkward at first-- the needles won't cooperate, and you'll tear your hair. But, if you persevere, you will succeed.
click picture
Some tricks to make it easier:

*BEFORE YOU START your two color project--train your other hand in the unfamiliar technique. There are instructions for English and continental knitting here and here. Practice on something small, flat and gaugeless--a potholder?--where tension is immaterial.  As per the next point, there is no need to purl. Make this object in garter stitch--knit every row.

*WORK the two-color project WITH CIRCULAR NEEDLES around and around on the face of a large-ish TUBE--IMHO, a hat (about 20") would a good size for a first project.
  • If you try color knitting back-and-forth, you're going to have to purl in two colors on every other row. This is not impossible, but it is more difficult that knitting in 2 colors--so leave 2-color purling until you've mastered the tension thing.
  • If you try 2-color knitting on a small tube with dpn's, you'll not only have to watch the tension issue between your own two hands, you'll also have the additional issue of carrying floats across a right angle bend where the dpn's meet. A float will want to cut the shortest line--straight across this corner, making it much shorter than a float stretched out flat. A too-short float = puckers. Bottom line: leave the two-color socks until you have mastered float tension on a flattish piece of knitting.
*DON'T CHANGE HANDS--keep the same colors in the same hands. Your hands are going to tension the yarn differently, so being consistent about which hand holds which color will make the finished product nicer. Consistency also makes it possible to analyze your work--if one color is always looser, you'll know which hand ought to be knitting tighter. If you switch colors randomly, you'll really have no idea how to improve.

*USE WHICHEVER METHOD YOU'RE BETTER AT (continental or English) for whichever color there is the most of--this will give you the best overall tension. Use the unfamiliar hand to work the contrasting yarn. It is for this reason that the first post in this series recommended choosing a beginning pattern with one clearly dominant main color, and only a relatively small amount of the contrasting color.

To explain further: if most of the pattern is made of the main color, and that color is laid down the way you usually knit, you'll have a better chance of getting a good two-color result right away. If you've chosen your color pattern to keep the number of contrasting color stitches to a minimum, then even if your unfamiliar hand lays down the contrasting color with poor tension control, there won't be that much contrasting color to plague you. As stated previously, if you have to err, err on the side of TOO LOOSE. Then, if you have to, you can always go back and tighten those relatively few contrast color stitches, float by float and still obtain a wearable garment.

*DON'T WORRY ABOUT TWISTING THE YARNS TOGETHER--they will twist themselves all that is necessary if you are consistent about which yarn you hold in which hand. Further, it is only when you are trying to float a yarn across more than 5-6 stitches that you have to worry about pinning down that float somewhere along its too-long run. If you use a short float, there's no reason to ever actually twist anything at all... (but if anyone out there is just burning to make bunnies, or chickies, or some other pattern with a wildly long float, that subject is coming up, stay tuned...)
* * *
This is part 2 of a five-part series on color knitting.





--Good knitting, TK You have been reading TECHknitting on: Two-color knitting, with one color in each hand. (Stranded knitting).
Bitchy Mood

Not sure why, but I feel totally pissed off today.

Not Myself
Have you ever thought to yourself, why does maid service fold the ends of my toilet paper roll into a triangle every morning (now my current hotel is putting a gold circular sticker to keep the fold in place.)? Normally I'd think, "Oh thank god they touched my toilet paper, I feel much cleaner."

When I pulled off the gold sticker this morning, I wanted to punch the maid in the face. It took me until noon to realize that my emotional reaction may have been excessive.

Dirty Little Secrets
I didn't mention it, but when I bought the yarn for the baby blanket, I also made a couple of other purchases.

During my search for baby blanket yarn, I spotted a basket of Trekking sock yarn in 100 gm balls.



I don't find a lot of commercially spun sock yarn in boring men's colors, so I picked up two balls.

Then I saw their offering of Manos, so I picked this up.



Whenever I see interesting colors of Manos yarn, I pick up two skeins for what will become a throw for me and Thaddeus. I made one a while ago for my mother, and it was the hardest of all my knitted gifts that I ever gave up.

Here are the colors I have so far.



Not all of it is the Manos brand. Some of it was a different brand I got at WEBS that they claim is exactly like Manos. I can't wait to start this throw for us.

Current Knitting
I've made some progress on the baby blanket, but not enough to merit a picture.

Who do you think I am, Wendy?

Readers' Comments/Questions
Marilyn asks two questions:

1. Looks like you gots you a lot of twist in that spun yarn, J. I tend to overtwist myself, since some of it comes out in the plying anyways.

A. Yes, one of the downfalls of my knitting technique is that it usually has a little more spin than I'd care for. Like Marilyn, I compensate by plying, but I was also hoping that a harder yarn would be better for longer wearing sock yarn.

2. By the way, what's that knitted objet the baby blanket is lying on? Looks knitted, to my eye.

A. It's not, it's an old bath mat. I thought the sage green would show off the color of the yarn.

Finally, she mentions that she likes the baby blanket pattern, but not the color.

I am right with her on this one. The color would definitely not have been my choice, but it will be perfect for the recipients.

Michelene asks if anyone has noticed that KnitU is down.

No.

Pedestrian Friendliness


Living in one state and working during the week in another, it's quite interesting to see the differences in how cars deal with pedestrians.

Yielding At A Pedestrian Crosswalk
Having grown up in New Jersey, it always surprised me when I visited states like California or Massachusetts and found that when a pedestrian looked like she was about to cross a road...sometimes even a very busy road...automotive traffic would stop to let them cross. I even saw accidents caused by this pedestrian-friendly behavior.

Now living in Pennsylvania and work in Delaware, both states have similar laws about autos yielding to pedestrians in designated crosswalks. However, drivers in each state seem to treat the laws very differently.

In Pennsylvania, I'd estimate that about 10 percent of cars stop when they see someone trying to cross at a designated crosswalk. Unless the pedestrian is very bold and begins to cross, forcing traffic to stop, most cars won't stop.

In Delaware, it's even worse...drivers in Wilmington seem to ignore any rules about crosswalks altogether, and act as though they have full right-of-way when it comes to pedestrian traffic.

How pedestrian-friendly is your state or city or town? How pedestrian-friendly are you when driving? How bold will you get as a pedestrian when you know you should have right-of-way?

Current Knitting
Well, there's good news, and there's bad news. Which do you prefer first?

Okay...the good news. I finished knitting Le Soir D'Or this past weekend. Yes, I finished all 194 rounds, and I even completed the crochet cast-off.

The bad news...I didn't have time enough to block it after finishing it. But at least I was able to pin out the eight major points of the piece so I could get a couple of good pictures of it.





Overall, I am very happy with how it turned out. The design is quite beautiful, and now that I can read Ichida graphics, it's much easier to knit these lace pieces.

I'll plan on blocking it when I get home this coming weekend.

Readers' Comments/Questions
Mark writes, "While I agree that a BM song is the worst earworm possible, I prefer "Oklahoma", or possibly the theme music from "Dancing with the Stars." At this moment "Oklahoma" is winning."

Actually, one of my worst earworms is "Surry With The Fringe On Top"...I often drive by a small farm and there's a sign advertising the sale of Ducks and Geese and Chicks, and it never fails to jam that song into my brain.

Mark also asks, "Will you be bringing the Neibling to MSKR? I'd love to see it at a close-up, but safe distance."

Yes, now that I know I'll have completed the lace, I'll bring it for "show & tell" night. Saturday night is the time where the guys get to show off their accomplishments.

BTW...go wish Mark a happy birthday...we're the same age for about 25 days each year...now he's older!

Sunday, April 26, 2015

I'm a Bad Loser

Normally, I'm very good natured when I lose, but I have to admit, I'm still enraged whenever I see a Bush 2004 bumper sticker.

Empathy
Now I know how some of the hardcore Redumblicans must have felt when Bill Clinton beat George Bush, the senior in 1992.

It must have been inconceivable that the Governor of a less-than-significant Southern state beat out the incumbent president. And then to make matters worse, there was no humility in the conquering president. He was exultant, proud, and some might say brash.

Yes, I know how they must have felt, and I'm still having trouble getting over it.

Spinning
I told you I did some spinning this past weekend.



I couldn't decide which color to pick up next, so I just grabbed the closest ball of roving and started spinning. This color (which I'm calling "grape") is a much bluer purple than the last one which was very close to plum color and a lot more yellow.

It also spins much more easily, or at least I've gotten a lot more used to spinning this fiber. I've spun about 25% of this color so far, which is excellent progress for a weekend.

Next Knitting Project
I meant to mention that in my yarn shopping for the new baby blanket yarn, that all three stores had a shitload of novelty yarns and seem to sell more of that than anything else. It was disappointing, but if I were in their shoes, I'd be selling as much as I could as well.

Anyway, I started the new blanket and almost finished one pattern repeat.



I know it's all bunched up on the needle and difficult to photograph, but the pattern is interesting to do, except for the nine rows of seed stitch.

I've decided that bobbles are like crochet. They both look a lot better with finer gauge yarns.

Readers' Comments/Questions
Michelene asks: "Will you double the Baby Ull, or just work on really tiny needles for a really long time?"

Well, the pattern called for a US7 using Sport weight yarn. I'm using a US5 with a single strand of the baby weight yarn, and with the loftiness of the Dale Baby Ull, it's giving me a nice soft fabric. I had to increase the stitches to 231 per row.

Saturday, April 25, 2015

How to line a hat, headband style, with Polar fleece

includes 14 illustrations
click any illustration to enlarge

Lining a hat with Polar fleece is a splendid idea for several reasons. First, if the hat is too large, you get a second chance to make it fit--you can ease the hat smaller by sewing in a correctly-sized Polar fleece lining. Second, Polar fleece completely alleviates "itchy forehead" syndrome. Third, for athletes and active types, Polar fleece "wicks" -- it draws moisture away. A hat lined with Polar fleece will remain comfortable long after a woolen hat is sodden. Finally, Polar fleece has many virtues of its own--it's cuddly, sturdy and comes in lots of pretty colors and prints. Oh--it's also very easy to cut and sew and it never, ever, comes unraveled. Further information about Polar fleece can be found here (post of April 17, 2008) .

There are really two methods of lining a hat--the headband method and the fully-lined method. The fully-lined method is warmer, while the headband method is less bulky and suits active folk well--more heat can escape from the crown of a hat lined by the headband method than from a fully lined hat. Today's post shows the headband method, while the full-lining method is described here (post of June 28, 2008).

* * *

1. (above) The first step is to cut your headband out of Polar fleece yard goods, as shown. The illustration suggests a 4" deep headband, which is generous. Some folks prefer a narrower headband, so experiment and see what suits you. Polar fleece is pretty cheap, so there's no real reason to be sparing with it.


2. (above) Once you've cut your headband strip, the method illustrated here lets you go forward without taking any further measurements--everything from here out is done intuitively, and the tape measure can be put away. For example, the headband strip for the lining is sized by wrapping it around your forehead and pinning it shut. Experience shows that it's best to wear the pinned headband around the house for a little while before you commit to sewing it shut. What seems comfortably snug at first can seem ear-numbingly tight after a quarter of an hour.


3. (above) When you're pinning the headband, arrange matters so the "good" side (green side) is on the inside and the "not so good" side (blue side in these illustrations) is on the outside. Then, once you have the length correct, sew the headband shut across the short end.


4. (above). Trim away the excess fabric at the seam. If you find a standard 3/8 inch seam allowance too bulky, you can cut it closer--Polar fleece does not unravel or fray, so you can get away with narrower seam allowances if you prefer them.


5. (above) Because you want to see the good side of the fabric when you peer inside your hat, you must put the not so good side against the inside of the hat. Therefore, flip the band inside out so the seam allowance (and the not so good side) are on the inside of the band.


6. (above) Flip the hat inside out, also.


7. (above) Slip the headband over the hat. If the hat has a back--a seam, perhaps, or a little knitting error you don't care to display on your forehead--align the seam of the lining with the hat back.


8. (above) Illustrations can take you just so far. For reality, there is nothing like a photo. As you can see from this photo, it often happens that the headband is far, far wider than the hat itself. This is because the hat is likely to "draw in" more than the band, especially if the hat is in a contoured fabric like ribbing. While this may look worrisome, it really isn't a problem, as you can see by skipping ahead: illustrations 12 and 13 are the "after" photos of this same hat.


9. (above) The next step is to pin the hatband inside the hat. Make sure to tuck the seam allowance flaps inside and smooth them down at this point.


10 (above) Here is the how-to trick for pinning a headband evenly into a hat (or should I say--for pinning the HAT evenly inside the HEADBAND!?)

a: holding the hat (gray shape) inside the lining (blue shape), S-T-R-E-T-C-H the hat and the lining with both forefingers into a long shape which can be stretched no further. This automatically centers the hat inside the band. Pin the band to the hat in these two spots--a 4 inch headband may require two pins at each contact point (as shown in illustration 11), a narrower band may require only 1 pin at each contact point. Do you wonder how you can pin in the headband while your hands are inside the hat and band, stretching everything smooth? You can ask someone to help you, of course, but if you are alone, you can take a shortcut by pinning in one contact point BEFORE you start the stretching-out process, then pinch the hat and lining together where you find the second contact should go. Just be sure not to prick yourself with the pre-set pin, which would go right against one of your stretching fingers.

b. along one side, divide the length between the two pins in half by again stretching the hat and the lining until they can stretch no further. Pin this third contact point.

c. along the other side, repeat step b. Four points are now pinned.

d. again stretching between two contact points, set a fifth contact point at the half-way mark between two already-set pins.

e. repeat the "stretching to find the half-way point" 3 more times until a total of 8 contact points are securely pinned down.

f. the perfectionists among us may want to again halve each side length for a total of 16 contact points. I myself wouldn't bother unless the hat was very large, smooth and light--a large man's cap knitted from sock yarn, perhaps.

If the band was far wider than the hat, as in illustration 8, you will find that the band is puckering where it is pinned onto the hat. This is normal, so don't worry.


11. (above) Now we come to the sewing. The trick here is to smooth the hat to the band by stretching as you sew. Use a sharp-pointed needle and polyester sewing thread. I use a single strand, but some folks prefer a double strand. The fact is, polyester sewing thread is very, very strong. So strong, that it could end up cutting the woolen yarn of your hat if you are not careful about tension. You do NOT want to pull the thread up so tight that there is no slack--this is what causes the thread to want to cut the yarn. On the other hand, you also do not want to to sew so loosely that loops of thread lay inside the finished hat. Practice makes perfect in this, as in so many skills.

The best stitch for sewing linings into stretchy woolens is the overcast stitch. This overcast stitch is particularly good because it allows a certain amount of extra thread to remain in the fabric, which permits stretching without popping the thread or tearing the woolen fabric.

The overcast stitch is also an excellent choice because the thread "tethers" the two pieces of fabric (hat and lining) together, rather than fastening them unmovingly to one another. To draw an analogy: suppose you wanted to attach two pieces of wood together in a manner which held them firmly, but still let them move. The overcast stitch is like attaching the two pieces with short lengths of chain: with chain, the two pieces of wood remain free to swing past one another, and this degree of movement is desirable in a lining. By contrast, a firmer stitch would be more like nailing the two pieces of wood together. Yet, "nailing" the lining onto the hat would make the thread tear as soon as one fabric stretched more than the other--not desirable in a lining for a stretchy knitted item.

If you click on illustration 11, it will enlarge enormously, and you can see a closeup.
  • At the hat edge, you'd want to pierce right through a strand of yarn--use the sharp point of the needle to catch two plies of a 4-ply yarn for example.
  • At the Polar fleece edge, you want to catch a little dollop of fabric from the fabric face, as illustrated. Using your needle to catch a little dollop from the fabric face forces the cut edge of the fleece to roll to the inside. This little roll hides the cut edge of the fleece from view, making a very lovely transition line between the fleece and the knitting (click to enlarge illustration 12 for a closer view)
HOWEVER, catching that little dollop of fabric from the face can be frustrating with fleece, because sometimes your needle just catches fuzz, instead of scooping up the little dollop you want. So, although, the rolled-in edge is very beautiful, yet if the frustration factor of this sort of perfectionism is going to stand between you and a lined hat, then sew the headband in by whip stitching right through the cut edge of the Polar fleece, and to heck with it! This stitching is inside a hat, after all, not on the lead item in a fashion parade.


12. (above) Here is the final result from the inside. As you can see, the excess width of the band, as shown in illustration 8, has been eased to the hat. When the hat is put on, all those puckers disappear, and the hat lies smooth against the head.


13. (above) There is something of a line where the edge of the headband lies. If you don't care for that look, stay tuned for a future post on the method for fully lining hats with Polar fleece.

14. (above) ta da!

--TECHknitter (You have been reading TECHknitting on: how to line a hat with Polar fleece, in the headband style)
God Bless America

This sentiment pisses me off more than I can tell you.

Self Centered Pricks
First, let me start off by saying that I love living in this country, but I will never understand putting up signs and sticking on bumper stickers that say "God Bless America".

Why don't they say "God Bless The World"? Or perhaps, "God, Thanks For All America's Blessings"? Or at least "God Bless Other Countries So They Can Know America's Blessings"?

Doesn't it seem a little selfish and perhaps even xenophobic to ask your version of the almighty to just bless this country?

If it's a sign of loving spirituality, it clearly fails miserably.

If it's a sign of patriotism, it makes us seem a lot needier of blessings than we are.

If it's a sign of a group of lemmings who thinks it's a good idea to have the words God and America in one bumper sticker, it does a fine job.

Knitting
I did a minimal amount of knitting on the current sock project.

I finished the first sock, I'm almost up to the heel on the second sock. I know it's not much, but I also got some spinning in this weekend which I'll discuss in my next post.

The other thing I did was finish the Communion Shawl.



I added the fringe and re-blocked it, and it came out just beautifully.

I also wrote up the pattern and published it out on TheKnittingVault.com in case anyone is interested in purchasing the pattern.

Next Knitting Project
Thaddeus and I went yarn shopping this past Saturday. I was looking for yarn for the upcoming baby blanket project.

We first went to "Knitting To Know Ewe" near Wrightstown, PA. Stupid name, but lovely store. I was dismayed to see a lot of novelty yarn, and a class in session of five women knitting glitzy scarves or shawls. They didn't have an appropriate yarn for my project.

Then I went to "Stitch Inn" in Lahaska, PA. I have been to this store before, and I figured they would have a DK weight superwash wool in green or yellow.

No such luck, so I finally went to my closest yarn store, and while they didn't have an DK weight superwash at all, I ended up getting a nice pale yellow baby weight superwash.



I've always enjoyed working with Dale Baby Ull, so I'll just adapt the pattern and hope that I calculated the amount of yarn I need accurately.

Readers' Comments/Questions
Debi asks: "Would you consider blogger mentorship?" after having numerous problems with Blogger help.

In my early days of blogging, I did help some folks with their blogs, but it got to be somewhat overwhelming. There are tons of good tutorials on the web to do what you're trying to do, and when all else fails, you can always find something in a web site you like and click on the "Edit" and then "View Source" menu option in Internet Explorer to see how it was done.

Thanks to Michelene for the preview of IK. I'll be looking for it, since it seems to be the best of the major magazines.

Friday, April 24, 2015

How to knit with two or more colors-part 1: background information

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So far on this blog, we started with the idea there are only two stitches in all of knittingdom --knitting and purling. Next, we alternated these two stitches to create different textured fabrics: stockinette fabric, reverse stockinette fabric and garter stitch.

Now, we're going in a different direction. Using only plain, smooth stockinette, we're going after two (or more) color knitting.

Color knitting makes possible the children holding hands, the contrasting bands on hats, the beautiful Scandinavian designs, the spirals, the squares, the diamonds. All of these designs could be made in texture patterns yes, but color adds an undeniable dimension.

Series layout
This post, the first in a series about color knitting, lays out background. The second post covers the classic "one color in each hand" method popularized by Elizabeth ZimmermanPart three shows the trick of two color knitting with two-colors-in-one-hand, then three-color knitting (two colors in one hand, one in the other). Parts four and five show two different tricks for working only one color at a time, yet still getting multi-color effects.

Part 1: BACKGROUND INFORMATION
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First project--For beginning color knitters, a swell first project would involve no purling because two-color knitting is far easier than two-color purling. Also good to avoid would be a lot of shaping. Good garments to start on might be a circular-knit muffler scarf or a Norwegian- style steeked sweater. Another good choice would be a raglan-sleeve sweater made with the yoke all-in-one-piece, either top-down, or bottom-up. Raglans with all-in-one-piece yokes are shown in the illustrations of color placement, below. If you use these garment shapes, you'll be learning to color-knit, around and around on a tube, which is the easiest way.

Needles--Best would be a pair of circular needles with a proportionate cable--not too long (sticks out of the fabric in a loop), not too short (stitches all scrunched up). Going around and around on the face of a tube means you can create stockinette fabric without ever purling, and creating such a fabric on circular needles is going to be easiest for intro color knitting. (If it puzzles you as to why all-knit can make stockinette fabric on circular needles, follow this link.)


Pattern placement--"all-over" OR on the chest and shoulders--Color knitting is heavier than most kinds of one-color knitting. The yarn not on the face of the fabric is generally carried behind, resulting in a thicker, doubled fabric. A garment with all-over color-knit patterns is going to feel balanced to wear--there will be the same weight of fabric throughout the sweater. A sweater pattern which has the color pattern only on the chest and shoulders will be OK to wear too--the sweater won't be balanced, but the heavier fabric will be centered on the body parts best able to benefit--the chest and shoulders will be kept warmer by the doubled fabric. In addition, the idealized image of body type for men and women emphasizes a heavier bust or chest, and a thinner waist and hips, so doubled fabric over the chest or bust and the shoulders help with appearances, also.
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Harder to justify are designs which feature color knitting over the hips and wrists, and nowhere else. These sweaters tend to feel unbalanced. The wrist design, a "bracelet" of doubled fabric, can get annoying as the day goes on. The lower design concentrates bulk where many people would prefer to avoid it--few body types are flattered by a thick roll of doubled fabric around the hips.

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A short note about hats--hats with color bands and single color tops have a satisfying thickness around the ears, which need to stay warm, but are thinner in the single color fabric over the crown. If these are knit in thin yarn, the crown will be thin enough to let excess body heat rise and escape. Bottom line: a color-band hat with a single color crown knit in thin yarn works especially well for activewear like ski hats.

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Floats--at least when learning, choose a color pattern which features short "floats." Carrying a yarn behind the fabric face for more than about 5 stitches is courting tension trouble. Color-knitting traditions (Scandinavian, Latvian, Turkish, Shetland Islands) rarely feature any float longer than 5-6 stitches, most floats are shorter, while some traditions call for constructing multi-colored knitting with no floats at all (Scottish argyle).

Color knitting originated with goatherds knitting socks on rocky hillsides, fishwives waiting for the boats to come in, young girls watching the geese, sailors at sea, mothers keeping children from the open fire. If all these industrious, clever knitters from different traditions have established that floats should be kept short, there's probably a good reason. Consider avoiding that pattern with the bunnies and L-O-N-G floats (but if you just have to have long floats, there will be a post on taming those, coming up).

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A very good sort of geometric for a first pattern would have:

* one dominant color, called the main color (mc), and one contrast color (cc). Starting off color knitting with more than two colors is biting off more than you can maybe chew.

*the proportion of mc to cc is best when the main color unquestionably predominates.  Despite the predominance of the main color, however, the pattern should avoid isolated single cc stitches: isolated single cc stitches on the fabric surface don't have a lot of "oomph"--they lack the grabbing power necessary to stabilize all that yarn floating behind.

*a short float--for the reasons above

*A row or a couple of rows of plain knitting either in or between in each pattern repeat. This allows the fabric an area where the tension is less likely to be off-kilter--a "rest break." It also makes the fabric less dense (easier to knit) than having every single row in two-color pattern--you will see that the floats sag into the plain rows, so these aren't really noticeably thinner than the rest of the garment.

Type of yarn--For your first project, choose wool--old fashioned sheep's wool, preferably as rustic as you can stand to work with. Sheep's wool magnified is disgustingly organic--all scales and hooks and wooly hairs. But in color knitting, these organic properties are to your advantage--the projections entangle the floats and help control the fabric. Non-sheep wools, like alpaca and cashmere have some scales, but not nearly as many (which is why they're so soft...) and "slippery" yarns (acrylics, cottons, silks, bamboo, superwash wools, linen) lack the scales, hooks and hairs to hold the different colored yarns together--the result for a beginning project will be disappointment. (So if you're going for bunnies around the bottom regardless, at least avoid cotton yarn...)
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Float tension: Getting the tension correct in color work is one of the toughest tricks in all of knitting, no joke. You are going to start off making messes, so resolve to err in the direction of too loose, rather than too tight.

A new knitter at my LYS was making a red-and-white baby cap destined to never to fit any human born--it would have been too tight for a baby monkey. The floats puckered the fabric so the pattern could hardly be seen. A too-loose cap could always have been tightened up (there will be more about this when we get to long floats) but that too-tight tragedy on the needles was destined to break everyone's heart--all that misspent hopeful energy, so sad.

The trick is, the floats should be long enough so that the fabric does not pucker when stretched. Therefore, spread your stitches out along the needle BEFORE you draw the float yarn over them to knit the next colored stitch. In other words, don't keep your stitches all scrunched up.  If you do, your float will be shorter than the width of the fabric. Then, once the scrunched-up stitches spread out naturally or stretch when wearing, any floats originally created over scrunched-up stitches will be too short to stretch along, and the fabric will pucker.

If you find that stretching the stitches along the needle still isn't creating a long-enough float, the next trick is to put a finger or two in the way, and draw the float yarn over the stretch AND the finger(s). However, floats so loose that they never come under tension even when the garment is worn are floats which have a hard time glomming on to the back of the fabric, even if you are knitting in the hairiest sheeps-wool going. Too-loose floats will catch in buttons and fingers and toes.

Somewhere around about the tail end of the second project, you'll find the float tension you are aiming for.

* * *

The entire series on color knitting:
Part 1: How to knit with two or more colors: background information

Good knitting, --TK
You have been reading TECHknitting on: the basics of color knitting--how to knit with two or more colors.